Tag: Eyeshadow

2018-04-18 Tutorial

Colorful festival makeup tutorial

festival makeup colors tutorial

Spring and summer are full of fun festivities and for me the best part about any party or festival is obviously makeup. Festival makeup can be bold, colorful and different.

In this post I will show you step by step how to create this colorful rainbow on your eyelids. I know it looks complex, but it’s actually very simple and easy to do! Easy? Yes, it really is. Even a beginner can manage this, I dare say. Especially, if you follow my tips on how to blend different colors together and how to pull of a colorful look.

Sidenote: the little unicorn inside me gets very happy, when seeing this many colors.

festival makeup look

colorful festival makeup tutorial

festival makeup tutorial

Colorful festival makeup tutorial

  1. Prime your eyelids and set the primer.
  2. Contour the eye just a little bit using a light shade, that is close to your own skin color. I used a light peachy shade. This also gives a nice base to all the colors and makes them look like they fade gradually towards the brow.
  3. Start applying the colors one by one. Use tapping motions and let those taps do the blending for you. The only color you’re really gonna blend is the very first one: orange. You want to make the ‘tail’ of your eyeshadow nice and smooth, so go ahead and blend it to the shape that you want.
  4. When you’re done with all the colors (on your lower lashline as well!), go ahead and make a black liner. You can make it sharp, or smoky, as I did here. Apply your mascara and lashes and you are done!

I paired this eye look with orange lips. You could go for nude lips, but choosing a color from the eye makeup looks very nice! Additional glitter won’t hurt you either.

colorful eyeshadow tutorial

Color placement.
The lightest shade right below the brow bone is the transition color. I used a light peachy shade. It gives some definition to the eye and a nice base for all the colors. Then my main colors were: orange, pink, blue and yellow. I used the tiniest amount of rose gold between the orange and the pink, just to make them blend together even more seamlessly. I also applied a tiny amount of lavender between pink and blue. On hindsight, I should have applied some green between blue and yellow too.

Using these ‘additional’ colors between the ‘main’ colors, makes them blend together more seamlessly, since the additional color already contains both of those colors a little. For example rose gold already has some pink and some orange in it. Obviously you could just blend these colors together too, but this way you get more control over the colors and how they act.

colorful eye makeup

How to blend different colors together, when doing a colorful look?

When you’re doing a colorful look, there are just a few things you should keep in mind.

First of all: don’t blend too much. I know it’s usually all about blending and swiping and windshield motions and what not. But this time I will say to you: don’t blend! If you blend all these crazy colors together, they might look muddy and messy. Especially if they don’t naturally fit together. Instead – do small tapping motions and let those taps do the blending for you. In this look I did a very minimal blending job by tapping my brush gently.

So do this: take some color to your brush and start applying it right where you want the color to be most pigmented (right next to the lashline).Then once your brush only has some color left in it, start to move towards the edges.

Second: use black. Black eyeshadow or black liner is meant for saving any colorful look. You can use all the colors of the rainbow, as long as you pull the look together using black. It somehow makes all the difference in the world and even in this tutorial you can see how big of a difference a black liner and black lashes make.

Third: every color needs it’s own brush. Don’t even think about getting away with just one or two brushes! In this makeup look I used a new brush for every color: so seven altogether! Or actually eight, if you count the brush I used to blend the light peach base color, before starting to apply the actual colors.

colorful festival makeup

Thank you sister for being my model! Do you see the resemblance in us?

Btw, if you haven’t already participated, check out the giveaway I have going on right now – it’s international and all you need to do is comment on the blog post.

If this makeup is too bold for you, check out my other tutorials including this ‘Colorful, but wearable makeup tutorial’. There’s also one for blue eyes, where I used brown and gold tones, so it’s definitely wearable as well: Makeup for blue eyes.

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2018-02-14 Tutorial

Hooded Eye Shadow Placement Trick for Visible Color

hooded and deep set eyes eyeshadow

If your eye shadow disappears when your eyes are open, the usual crease placement may be too low. For hooded and deep set eyes, this eye shadow trick places the matte contour shade slightly higher, following the natural shadow below the brow bone so the color stays visible and the eye looks balanced.

This technique works especially well for hooded eyes, deep set eyes, monolids, or anyone with very little visible lid space. In this post I’ll show you where to place the shadow, how high to take it, and how to keep the eye looking lifted instead of heavy.

  • Skip the natural crease if it sits too low.
  • Place the matte shadow where your brow bone creates a natural shadow.
  • Blend the lid color up to that shape and keep shimmer off the contour area.

If your eye shape is a mix of several things, I also recommend reading how to makeup for downturned eyes and broader deep set eyes dos and don’ts after this guide.

I learned this the hard way on my own eyes. My eyes have very little visible lid space, so the classic “put the dark shadow in the crease” advice never really worked for me. Once I stopped forcing my shadow into the crease and started following my actual bone structure instead, everything clicked.

And even though I’m a professional, my own eye shape has taught me a lot. Sometimes makeup looked exactly right, and other times I was just guessing. This trick was the moment the logic finally made sense to me.

makeup blog hooded eyes

How to apply eyeshadow on hooded and deep set eyes

Forget about the natural crease

As you can see, my natural crease is very low. Deepening that crease only makes my eyes look smaller, so for this eye shape the crease is not the place I want to emphasize. If your eyes are hooded or deep set, it often helps to stop treating the natural crease as the automatic placement line for dark eyeshadow.

eyeshadow trick for hooded deep set eyes eyeshadow trick for hooded deep set eyes

Follow your natural bone structure

The better rule is to follow your natural bone structure, just like you would with contour and highlight. Put the shadow where it naturally occurs on the eye: right below the brow bone, where the eye starts to sink back. That placement looks softer, more flattering, and more believable because it works with the structure you already have.

If you want even more guidance for this eye area, my posts on bold eye makeup for deep set eyes and round deep set eyes show how the same logic changes slightly depending on the finished look and eye shape.

find your brow bone

Find the natural shadow right below your brow bone

To get the placement right, find the exact spot with your finger or in slightly dim lighting. You can usually feel where the bone ends and the eye sinks in a little, and you can often see that shadow very clearly in softer light. I’ve literally taken my brush to the hallway, marked where that shadow hits, and then gone back to my makeup table to blend from there.

This is why the trick makes eyeshadow look better: the makeup sits where a shadow would naturally belong. The blend looks softer, the shape looks more lifted, and the eyeshadow stays visible instead of disappearing into the fold.

ultimate eyeshadow trick

Here is a close-up so you can see how high the eyeshadow can actually go. It is nowhere near my natural crease.

ultimate makeup trick for hooded eyes

Here is a simple tutorial using exactly this placement.

Simple 3-step tutorial for hooded and deep set eyes

hooded eyes makeup trick tutorial

  1. Contour the eye by following your natural bone structure. Use a matte shade and create the “crease” where a natural shadow occurs. That is where the color should be darkest. Fill in the outer corner and blend well so the contour stays soft. Add some color to the lower lash line too, but keep it subtle unless you want more drama.
  2. Apply your lid color all over the lid up to the new contour shape. Blend the edges carefully so the transition looks soft. If you use shimmer, keep it mainly on the lid and do not take it over the matte contour area.
  3. Finish with inner-corner highlight, liner if you want it, and mascara. Here I used a soft blended liner with black eyeshadow.

hooded and deep set eyes eyeshadow hooded and deep set eyes eyeshadow

Best products for this technique

You do not need a huge makeup bag for this. The most helpful things are a reliable eye primer, a soft matte contour shade, and a brush that blends without making the shadow patchy.

Best eye primer: *Urban Decay Primer Potion. This is the base I rely on when I want shadow to stay smooth and visible all day.

Best premium palette: *Anastasia Beverly Hills Soft Glam Eyeshadow Palette. Great if you want strong pigmentation and easy blending.

Best neutral palette: *Urban Decay Naked3 Soft Pink Eyeshadow Palette. This is a versatile everyday palette when you want flattering contour shades for this technique.

Best soft glam option: *Too Faced Born This Way The Natural Nudes Eyeshadow Palette. A nice pick when you want a little more softness or shimmer on the lid while keeping the contour matte.

Best blending brush: *SEPHORA COLLECTION PRO Crease Brush #19. This is the kind of soft blending brush I like for this technique on hooded and deep set eyes.

Best eye brush set: *SEPHORA COLLECTION The Eye Brush Set. A focused eye brush set is useful when you want clean placement and soft blending for hooded and deep set eyes.

FAQ

Where should eyeshadow go if your crease disappears when your eyes are open?

Usually higher than your natural crease. Place the matte contour shade where the brow bone creates a natural shadow so the color stays visible with the eyes open.

Should shimmer go above the crease on hooded eyes?

I usually keep shimmer on the lid and keep the contour area matte. That keeps the shape cleaner and stops the eye from looking puffier or heavier.

Does this work only for hooded eyes?

No. This also works for deep set eyes, monolids, and anyone whose visible lid space is limited. The exact placement changes slightly, but the principle stays the same: follow the structure you have instead of forcing a generic crease shape.

What should I read next if my eye shape is mixed?

Start with downturned eyes, deep set eyes do’s and don’ts, and round deep set eyes. Most people are not just one exact eye shape, so comparing a few close matches usually helps.

I hope this post helps you as much as this realization helped me. If you try the technique, send me a message on Instagram or tag me there so I can see your look.

And hey – happy Valentine’s Day! I’m going to do a little date night thing with Risto, eating dinner at home in candlelight. So cheesy, but so lovely.

Want more product-focused picks after this tutorial? Browse my beauty reviews and favorites.

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