Deep Set Eyes Makeup Tutorial: How to Lift & Brighten Your Eyes

how to bring out very deep set eyes with makeup

deep set eyes makeup before and after

In this deep set eyes makeup tutorial I will show you how to work with a prominent brow bone and a lid that sits deeper in the socket. With the right placement you can bring the eyes forward, make them look more open and keep the makeup visible when your eyes are open.

As I’ve said before, we all have unique eye shapes and they are often a mix of different features. Even the same eye shape can look totally different on another face. I have also shared my own hooded and deep set eyes makeup trick, but Suvi’s eyes are deeper set and the mobile lid is more hidden. If your eyes are round as well, see the separate round deep set eyes tutorial.

 

If you have hooded eyes, you can use many of the same placement tricks. Deep set eyes and hooded eyes are similar in application, but I also recommend reading the deep set eyes dos and don’ts for the most common mistakes.

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Deep set eyes makeup: quick placement guide

Quick answer: To bring out deep set eyes, place matte shadow slightly above the natural crease, keep the mobile lid bright enough to show when your eyes are open, conceal inner-corner shadows, keep the lower lashline lighter, and use mascara or lashes to pull the eye forward.

Here’s what we’re gonna do:

small eyes bigger with makeup

Before & after.

concealer deep set eyes

Concealer for deep set eyes

Concealer is important for anyone, but especially for deep set eyes. The eye shape already creates shadows on the eyes and emphasizes the dark circles. If you’re not sure how to conceal properly, check out my updated dark circle concealer tips about it.

My absolute favorite concealer is *NARS Radiant Creamy Concealer. It is pigmented, easy to blend, it does not look dry and it lasts well on the skin. If you want something more affordable, *Catrice Liquid Camouflage Concealer is a good budget option, though I would not recommend it for very dry skin.

Read my post: Concealing dark circles: my updated tips

how to eye shadow crease colour for deep set eyes

Place crease colour above the natural crease

Here is where you should contour your eye: above the actual crease, almost right under the brows, while still leaving a small gap. I used a slightly warm peachy colour. A warm matte colour works well when you want to soften the area without drawing too much attention to it.

matte shadow placement for deep set eyes

Use matte shades to sculpt the eye

Here is the area, you want to contour with matte shades. You don’t want to bring shimmer to the area, you’re trying to ‘hide’.

very deep set eyes eyeshadow application

Keep the lid colour visible

In this particular makeup I applied the lid colors as shown. I think you can play with colors here as much as you like! Even though it’s not that visible when the eye is open, there is room to surprise your audience every time you blink. The only important thing here is to bring the eyeshadow high enough, so that some of it shows, when the eye is open. Make sure the line between your crease color and lid color is nice and blended.

Leave the lower lashline light

If you use a dark shade on your lower lashline, the eye sinks a bit deeper. So keep it quite light – or at least lighter than the lid colors. But don’t leave it completely bare. Applying the same color on your lower lashline, that you used on your lid and crease, will make the makeup look more put together.

 

Use lashes or mascara to bring the eyes forward

They just really, really make a difference in bringing out the eye.

deep set eyes makeup

Now to the pictorial. I used purple and gold to bring out Suvi’s blue eyes and to make the look more fun.

 

Purple & gold eyeshadow tutorial for deep set eyes

very deep set eyes makeup tutorial

Before getting to the tutorial, an important thing to note is that using an eyeshadow primer with deep set and hooded eyes is crucial. It helps to keep the eyeshadow in place, especially since the lid folds. The iconic *Urban Decay Eyeshadow Primer Potion is my go-to and I warmly recommend it.

And then to the pictorial:

1. I basically followed my own rules and first contoured the eye above the crease and slightly under the brow with a peach colour.
2. Then I used purple shade all over the lid and blended that high enough, so that some of it shows when the eye is open. The purple shade is matte.
3. I added a pop of colour in the inner part of the eye and blended that with the purple colour, so that the transition is subtle. Same goes to the lower lash line.
4. I added a highlight to the inner corner, lined the eyes, applied mascara and finally some big lashes.

how to bring out deep set eyes

Isn’t she gorgeous? There was some serious model material on my camera after this session. Thank you Suvi for being my model! 

Best products for deep set eyes

Eyeshadow palettes I love:
*NYX Ultimate Shadow Palette 05W Warm Neutrals
*Too Faced Mini Born This Way Eyeshadow Palette
Illamasqua Unveiled Nude Artistry Palette, if you already own it or find it in stock

Makeup brushes I use:
*Real Techniques Everyday Eye Essentials brush set
Zoeva rose gold brush set, if available

The key products I used were concealer, a reliable eyeshadow primer and soft matte eyeshadows. Zuii Organic products were part of the original look, but the most important thing is the texture and placement rather than the exact discontinued products.

For affordable eyeshadow palettes, I would now choose a neutral NYX palette with matte transition shades. Too Faced is another good option if you want a compact palette with easy everyday shades.

As for brushes, I recommend a small blending brush and a flat lid brush. A brush set like Real Techniques Everyday Eye Essentials is a more current replacement for the older Coastal Scents set I originally used.

makeup for very deep set eyes

Full product list for Suvi’s makeup:
*Urban Decay Eyeshadow Primer Potion
Makeup Geek Eyeshadow, Peach Smoothie
Zuii Organic Eyeshadows, Blackberry,
Alima Pure Kajal, Ink
Ardell Lashes, Wispies
*NARS Radiant Creamy Concealer, Custard & Vanilla
Zuii Organic Makeup Powder, Creme
Zuii Organic Blush, Melon
Zuii Organic Lipstick, Sheer Peach
+ a clear gloss on top

 

Hopefully you learned something new here! What do you think of this look?

 

 

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Deep set eyes makeup FAQ

Where should eyeshadow go on deep set eyes?

Place your matte crease shade above the natural crease so it is visible when your eyes are open. Keep the mobile lid bright enough to show and blend the edge softly under the brow bone.

How do you make deep set eyes look bigger?

Conceal the inner-corner shadows, lift the crease placement, keep the lower lashline lighter, and use mascara or lashes to bring the eyes forward.

Should deep set eyes use shimmer?

Yes, but keep shimmer mainly on the mobile lid and inner corner. Use matte shades on the recessed area you want to soften.

Are deep set eyes and hooded eyes the same?

No. They can overlap, but deep set eyes sit deeper under the brow bone while hooded eyes have skin that folds over the lid. If your outer corner also turns down, see my downturned eyes makeup guide.

How to conceal dark circles – Concealer tips

There are two products, that I value more than others and those are the products, that I use to conceal my dark circles under eyes. Those eyebags may come handy on Halloween, but in every day life it’s pretty cool not to look tired. Concealing your dark circles makes the whole face look brighter, younger and healthier.

In this post I will show you how to conceal dark circles and I’ll give you some tips on using concealer on your eyes – hopefully you’ll learn something new here!

Before going to the tutorial – I need to go through some important things. The ABC of concealing dark circles.

The ABC of concealing dark circles

  • A. Don’t forget to add concealer in the area shown in the photo. That is usually a very dark area (if not the darkest!), so make sure to bring your concealer all the way up.
  • B. This is the obvious problem area, that we are concealing. The dark circles. Here is where you apply most of the product. But you already knew this, if you have any problems with eye bags ’cause they create this shape (don’t worry, I know they’re chanel).

  •  C. But! What’s important here, is that you blend the concealer around (like shown in the photo), so that the line between your foundation and concealer isn’t visible. Don’t apply a ton of product to these little dots, but use what you already have (photo 2) and blend the edges. Make sure not to bring it too low – the idea is not to make your cheeks slump, which will happen if you bring the concealer too low in a V-shape (a mistake, that always caughts my eyes).

Then to the actual tutorial – here is how I currently hide my dark circles:


How to hide dark circles tutorial

  1. First I use a darker peachy shade. I make sure to follow my rules and I bring it on my inner corner as well to hide that dark area there. This colour is purely to neutralize the blue and hide that darkness, so it doesn’t need to be blended around. Actually you want to keep this colour right where it belongs and pat it on. In other words – don’t follow the C-rule here.

2. Already looking better, the blue/dark is not that visible anymore. But we need to add more coverage and brighten this up so, let’s keep going.

3. Then I use a lighter concealer shade to give my dark circles even more coverage AND to brighten everything up. Here those ABC -rules come handy.

4. This may be optional, if your skin is dry and you feel like your concealer stays in place, but finally I set my concealer using a powder. I actually like to use a powder, that is also a concealer and offers that extra coverage. Then I’m all done!

Before after photo from when I was a brunette. I wanted to add these here, ’cause I really captured the difference that concealer makes! I think here I only used NARS Vanilla, but I layered it a bit. Nowadays I prefer using something peachy first and then a light concealer.

These are the products, that I use and feel like can’t live without:

*adlinks marked

*NARS Radiant Creamy Concealer in two shades:
Custard (a darker peachy shade) and Vanilla (a bit lighter than my skintone). This concealer is creamy, easy to blend and it has an amazing coverage.

*the beautyblender
I apply my concealer always with this. I think it’s the best tool for this task. It’s also a winner for foundation and for powder too. Honestly, if you haven’t tried this magical makeup sponge yet, I urge you to.

*Tapered powder brush
I apply the powder under my eyes with a tapered pointy brush like this. It’s just the perfect shape for my eyes and the bristles are soft, so it’s gentle for my eye area.

+ Orange color corrector?

Sometimes, when my dark circles are super dark and super blue, I need a bit of orange there. That’s why some people use orange lipstick, but it can be a bit hard to get right. I recommend just choosing a peachy concealer color, so that it neutralizes the blue. NARS concealer for example in the shades Custard or Cannelle can work for this great.

And there’s that! What’s your favorite concealer?

how to: concealing dark circles

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